It is said that Katlu Mali, the women of the Gadaba tribe, the native community mainly in Koraput district of Odisha and into some parts of Andhra Pradesh, use this necklace as a signature piece. This piece stands for the cultural expression of the tribe, which is imprinted on the hand-made ornaments of how nature converges into metalwork. The subtlety and significance of Katlu Mali, which is said to consist of four large black beads that symbolize strength and protection, along with smaller metallic cylindrical pieces, commands respect. The contrast of gleaming metal with the somber beads really draws the eye. No one can forget this necklace, which cuts itself cleanly through one of the top edges, given that there is hardly a space that is untouched by wrapping the white metals completely. With that being said, it has added to the strength of the ornament without damaging the outward splendor.
The jewellery made of black and white beads, worn during special holidays such as festivals, marriage ceremonies, or traditional dance forms, has become a piece of ornamental beauty and a source of cultural identity and social belonging. The black and white colors convey an idea of balance, often echoed in the tribal beliefs system. The very making of Katlu Mali shows the craftsmanship of the local artisans, who pass on their techniques from generation to generation. They are handcrafted but are treasures of personal and cultural significance. In contemporary times, such tribal jewellery finds its way into museum collections and exhibitions, adding luster to Gadaba's rich culture.