The Gawaria group, found in a fascinating diversity across Rajasthan, is an embodiment of textile and embroidery traditions. One of the most important garments of the Gawaria women is the kanchali, which is nothing but a blouse cut short in length from the waist to the lower abdomen-a design in red and black cotton heavy with mirror work, beadwork, and applique designs.
The kanchali for Gawaria women forms the body of the traditional dress with a ghagra (skirt) and an odhani (veil). Interestingly, both red and black have a significant cultural meaning relative to this dress: that of strength and passion along with protection. In addition, to beautify the attire, mirror embroidery and bead work are considered to provide symbolic protection against evil spirits according to the prevalent belief of Rajasthani tribal traditions.
Hand stitch craftmen are well versed in the art of Gawaria: every process, every work is unique, every garment, to the spirit of the craftsmen and the artisanship of the Tribal. These blouses are very much a part of the artistic heritage and tribal identity and are primarily worn during festivities and cultural celebrations or weddings. Notable institutions such as the National Museum, New Delhi, house these textiles and keep the Gawaria traditions alive and sustainable.